Elderberry

Sambucus canadensis

Family Viburnaceae

ShrubNativeZones 3-9

Botanical illustration of Elderberry

Elderberry is the medicine cabinet you can grow: lacy summer flower heads for fritters and tea, then heavy purple berry clusters that cook down into the syrup, jelly, and dark wine people pay dearly for. The berries are always cooked first — that is the old tradition anyway.

A vigorous native shrub of 8-12 feet, elderberry thrives where ground stays damp — ditch lines and low corners other plants sulk in. Bees work the flowers and birds will fight you for the crop. It needs a partner to fruit well, so plant two and make syrup for the whole street.

Where to buy elderberry — 10 nurseries compared

  • Full Sun to Part Shade
  • High water
  • Fast growth
  • Native to North America
  • Excellent edible
  • Attracts bees
  • Needs a pollination partner
Elderberry — a print from the Plant Library collection

From the print shop

Growing elderberry? Hang it.

Our Plant Library collection carries elderberry — Sambucus canadensis, print Nº 169, “Elderberry.”

526 designsfrom $12.99white or black backgroundmatte poster, unframed

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Will it fruit where you are?

Enter your ZIP — we look up your USDA hardiness zone (2023 map) and check it against what elderberry actually needs.

Hardy inZones 3-9
PollinationPartner needed

Elderberry · Common problems

Common elderberry problems

Pests, diseases and weather to keep an eye on.

Pests

3 problems on file

Diseases

2 problems on file

Pollination

Poor pollination → low fruit set (plant a partner)

Elderberry · Growing & propagation

Growing elderberry

Light, water, soil, propagation and the season’s jobs.
What it needsThe details
Light
Full Sun to Part Shade
Water
High - loves moisture/ditches
Soil
Moist, Humus-rich · pH 5.5 - 6.5
Fertilizer
Early Spring (Nitrogen)
Pruning
Late Winter

Cane renewal (remove oldest canes) OR cut to ground annually for smaller bushes (sacrifices yield slightly but easier management).

Spacing
6-10 ft

How to plant & propagate elderberry

Propagate
Grafted, or from cuttings/layering

Seed won't come true

Elderberry · Harvest & keeping

What you get from elderberry

How long before it bears, how much it gives, how you know it is ready, and how long it keeps once picked.
Botanical illustration of Elderberry
Years to first harvest
1 to 3 years
Typical yield
5–15 lbs
What you eat
Fruit
How to tell it is ready
Cymes fully dark purple

Always cook before eating

How long it keeps
freeze or dry

Elderberry · Seasonal care & spray guidance

The elderberry growing playbook

Field-tested instructions for every job elderberry asks of you, compiled from university extension guidance — in the order the season brings them.

When to spray elderberry

Growing season. Monitor for Japanese Beetles (manual remove). SWD: Insecticide as berries turn purple if detected.

While it is dormant

winter, before growth starts

1 job
PruningIn January, February and March

Dormant-prune elderberry well before bud break

Any time the canes are fully dormant and well before bud break, cut out every dead, diseased or damaged stem, remove most wood that is three years old or older, and tip weak canes back to strong wood; leave five to eight strong canes on a mature bush. American cultivars can instead be cut entirely to the ground, which trades a little total yield for one uniform crop on new wood. Gather the prunings and burn or bin them rather than composting them in place. American elderberry fruits on wood at least a year old and also on new shoots thrown from the crown, so clearing spent old wood keeps light and air moving through the bush and pushes the vigorous new canes that carry the biggest cymes. Eriophyid mites overwinter under the buds and bud scales of those canes, so hauling the prunings away removes next year's mite population with them.

As growth begins

early spring

2 jobs
FeedingAt green tip

Nitrogen as growth begins

As the buds break and growth begins, spread 1 to 2 pounds of actual nitrogen per 1000 square feet over the root zone of a mature bearing planting. Do not feed nitrogen at planting time; a new plant gets at most a light dose about 4 to 8 weeks after it goes in. Retest the soil every two to three years and add phosphorus or potassium only if the test calls for it, keeping pH between 5.5 and 6.5. Elderberry pushes its whole fruiting frame out of the crown each spring, so the nitrogen has to be there as the shoots extend; applied later it feeds soft growth that will not harden before frost instead of the cymes.

SprayingAt green tip

Horticultural oil at green tip for eriophyid mites

From dormancy through green tip, before any leaves unfurl, spray horticultural oil (Damoil) and wet the canes and buds thoroughly. If you missed the window, the organic pre-bloom options are insecticidal soap (M-Pede), neem oil (Trilogy) or pyrethrins (PyGanic) - but they must go on before the leaves curl. Eriophyid mites spend the winter tucked under the buds and bud scales, and oil smothers them while they are still exposed there. Once they move into the expanding leaves and cause the inward leaflet curl and puckering, they are sealed inside the folded tissue and no rescue spray reaches them; heavy infestations go on to destroy florets and young fruit.

While it flowers

at bloom

1 job
What to watch forAt bloom

Scout the cymes at bloom, but do not spray insecticide

Walk the planting while the cymes are open and record what is building: sawfly larvae stripping foliage, eastern flower thrips in the florets, stink bugs and Jessie's bug at the shoot tips, and adult elder borer beetles, which emerge exactly now. Write down what you find and what it is doing, then hold every insecticide until the petals have dropped. Elderberry is primarily wind-pollinated, so a bloom spray buys you almost nothing in fruit set while still poisoning the bees and other insects working the flowers. Missouri Extension is explicit that insecticides are not to be applied during bloom, and the pests you see now are all still treatable at petal fall a few days later.

Just after bloom

as the fruit sets

1 job
SprayingAt petal fall

Elder borer beetle at petal fall

Once the petals have actually dropped, and only if you found elder borer beetles while scouting at bloom, spray bifenthrin (Brigade WSP). Check again about ten days after petal fall and repeat only if adults are still present. The same timing covers sawfly, thrips, stink bugs and Jessie's bug if scouting turned them up. Adult elder borer beetles emerge during bloom and lay their eggs at the base of the plant; the larvae then tunnel into the canes and roots where nothing can reach them. Petal fall is the first moment you can hit the adults without spraying open flowers, and it is the last moment before the eggs are laid.

Harvest time

as it ripens, and picking

2 jobs
SprayingBefore harvest

Spotted wing drosophila from first color

From the moment berries begin to color until the last pick, hang a vinegar trap and check it. If you catch spotted wing drosophila, spray spinosad (Entrust, an organic option) or spinetoram (Delegate), and pick up and destroy any fallen fruit. Alternate to a different chemistry rather than following one of these with the other. Unlike ordinary vinegar flies that need already-damaged fruit, SWD females have a serrated ovipositor that saws into sound ripening berries and lays eggs inside them. By the time the fruit looks soft or leaking, the larvae are already in it, so the spray has to be in place before the berries are attractive.

HarvestingAt harvest

Clip whole cymes and chill them fast

Harvest when every berry in the cyme is fully colored to a deep purple-black, clipping the entire cluster rather than picking berries off it. Go over the planting at weekly intervals and pick early in the day. Get the fruit to 32-40F as soon as you come in, then freeze the whole cymes and knock the berries loose by hand-shattering them or running them through a de-stemmer. Fresh elderberries tear and bleed juice if you strip them off the stem, but they snap off cleanly once frozen. The fruit is highly perishable and ripens in the heat of summer, and the anthocyanins that make it worth growing are fragile - long storage and repeated freeze-thaw cycles destroy them.

After harvest

autumn, and putting it to bed

1 job
PruningAfter harvest

Cut out borer-infested canes after harvest

With the fruit off, walk the planting and cut out any cane that is wilting at the tip, hollow, or showing frass at an entry hole. Burn the infested canes or take them off site - do not leave them in a brush pile or the compost. While you are there, pull out any wild elderberry growing near the planting. Pruning and burning infested canes is the only post-harvest control the Missouri guide lists for elder shoot borer moth: by now the larvae are living inside the wood where no spray can reach them, and they will overwinter there to emerge into next year's crop. (The guide does list a chemical option for this pest - Altacor 35WG - but only as a summer spray, which has to go on earlier, before the larvae are sealed in the cane. Once you are at post-harvest, sanitation is what is left.) Nearby wild elderberry acts as a reservoir that reinfests the planting every season.

Elderberry · Calculators & field guides

A little help in the garden.

Calculators for the figures. Field guides for the hands-on work.

Elderberry · Yearly calendar

The elderberry year, month by month

What elderberry asks for, month by month.

Jan

No calendar activity is listed for this month.

MonthJanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDec
Bloom
Prune
Harvest

BloomJune

PruneFebruary to March

HarvestJuly to September

What each band means

  • Bloom — flowers open — pollinators working, frost on blossoms is the danger.
  • Prune — shape it now — cuts heal cleanly and structure is visible.
  • Harvest — picking time — check ripeness every few days.

These are the species' typical months — expect them a few weeks earlier in warm zones and later in cold ones. Watch the plant, not just the calendar.

Elderberry · Ecology & uses

Ecology & uses

What it does for the garden, and what it is grown for.
Botanical illustration of Elderberry

Sambucus canadensis

Elderberry in the garden system

  • Shrub layer shrub
  • Nectary/insectary
  • Hosts Numerous moths; berries and nectar for wildlife
Attracts
Bees, Birds
Moisture
Wetland / wet-tolerant
Deer
Browsed

Protect young plants

Origin
Native to North America

What elderberry is grown for

! Some parts toxic — see notesRaw berries/stems mildly toxic — cook first

Traditional use
Syrup (Medicinal)
Use
Jelly
Use
Wine
Use
Flower tea
Edible value
4/5
Traditional use rating
4/5 in herbal tradition

Harvesting & storing elderberry

Late July - September in Missouri — clip whole cymes once every berry has colored.

Edibility, identification, and traditional-use notes here are general reference — not medical or veterinary advice, and not a claim that any plant treats or prevents anything. Medicinal ratings record how strongly a plant features in herbal tradition, nothing more. Never eat or dose a plant you have not positively identified. More on how to use this library.

Elderberry · Varieties & cultivars

Best elderberry varieties & cultivars

There are far more than these — the ones below are the named varieties of elderberry people actually plant.

Named varieties of elderberry differ in winter-chill needs, ripening time, hardiness, and whether they set fruit on their own — pick one that fits your climate.

13 varieties

Adams

Also known as Adams No. 1, Adams No. 2, Adams II

Partly self-fertile

Chill
300–600 hrs
Ripens
August
Zones
3-9
Disease
moderate; vigorous and productive
Size
6-10 ft tall, upright
Pollination
partially self-fertile; plant a second cultivar (e.g. York or Johns) for reliable, heavier fruit set

large clusters, good for juice, jelly, wine and dried — Classic New York selection with big berry clusters and strong vigor; plant with a second cultivar like York for best set. Chill-hour figure is an estimate only — no extension source gives a chill requirement for elderberry, which is cold-hardy and not chill-limited.

Where to buy ‘Adams’verified

Story Thyme Farms may earn a small commission from these links, at no cost to you — it never changes what we recommend.

Sources & plant identity

Know what you’re growing.
See where the knowledge comes from.

Botanical illustration of Elderberry

Elderberry

Sambucus canadensis

The plant, at a glance.

Botanical name
Sambucus canadensis
Plant family
Viburnaceae
Growth habit
Shrub · Perennial
Origin
Native to North America
USDA plant symbol
SACA12
Invasive risk
Low
Every garden is different.

Hardiness, size and timing vary with your cultivar, soil and climate.

Rooted in research.

University extension research, brought together with hands-on growing experience at Story Thyme Farms.

Explore Elderberry’s sources8 reference links
for Elderberry

Questions

Elderberry questions, answered straight.

Why isn't my elderberry fruiting?

Most often: it has no genetically distinct partner nearby. Elderberry is only partly self-fertile, so a lone plant sets a light crop at best — partially self-fertile, need 2 varieties for good crops. Plant a second, unrelated one nearby; two different cultivars, or a cultivar plus a seedling, is the classic pairing.

Is elderberry safe for kids and pets?

With care. Raw berries/stems mildly toxic — cook first Site it accordingly if children or pets roam the garden. This is general reference, not medical or veterinary advice — call a vet or poison control if something has actually been eaten.

When do you harvest elderberry?

Late July - September in Missouri — clip whole cymes once every berry has colored.

How do you propagate elderberry?

Grafted, or from cuttings/layering (seed won't come true).

Elsewhere

Where elderberry sits in the library.