Pea

Direct sow the moment the soil is workable, covering seed with about an inch of firmed soil. Sow in narrow trenches six to seven inches apart, or broadcast a wide row about two inches apart in all directions so the plants knit together. Do not wait for warmth. Peas run best between 55F and 65F and simply stop producing above 85F. Young plants shrug off a light frost and keep growing above 40F, so every week you sow early is a week of pod fill banked before the heat arrives and aborts the flowers.

Skip the nitrogen feed. Soil test instead for phosphorus, potassium and micronutrients and correct only what the test calls for. If peas have never grown on this site, dust the seed with Rhizobium leguminosarum inoculant right before sowing - put a pinch in the seed packet and shake. Peas fix their own nitrogen from the air through Rhizobium nodules on their roots, so extra nitrogen just buys you lush vine at the expense of pods. The inoculant only matters where the bacteria are not already established, which is why it is worth it on new ground and a waste on a bed that has grown peas before.

Check the undersides of leaves and the succulent growing tips weekly for colonies, and look for sticky honeydew or a line of ants as your tip-off. Wash colonies off with a forceful stream of water and repeat at intervals - that alone knocks populations down to a level the crop can carry. Look for aphid mummies before you do anything: they mean parasitic wasps are already working. Aphid feeding curls and distorts the new growth and coats the plant in honeydew that sooty mold then blackens. Because they cluster on soft tips, a water blast physically removes them without touching the lady beetles and wasps that keep the next generation down.

Put poles, netting or a fence in the ground about three inches from the seed on the day you sow. Tall and indeterminate varieties need it; bush types two to three feet tall can be sown 12 to 18 inches wide and will cling to each other instead. Driving supports in later tears through roots that are already run out, and a vine that has flopped rarely climbs properly again. Growing the crop vertically also opens it to airflow, which dries the foliage and cuts the disease pressure that a tangled mat on the ground invites.

For a second crop, re-sow 8 to 10 weeks before your average first fall frost - count back from your own frost date rather than following a calendar month. Keep the seedbed well watered; late-summer soil is hot and dry and germination is the hard part. Peas need to reach pod fill as the weather cools but before frost ends the crop, and 8 to 10 weeks is the window that lands them there. Sown earlier they flower into summer heat and abort; sown later they run out of season.

At the first sign of white powdery mats on the foliage, apply wettable dusting sulfur. Pull and bin badly infected plants rather than composting them, and do not put a fall pea crop back where the spring one mildewed. Resistant varieties - Knight, Sentry, Concord, Almoto, Aspen - are the cheaper answer. The fungus is driven by warm days, cool nights and humidity, so it builds as the crop ages and is worst on fall sowings. It carries over on infected seed and in plant debris, which is why last year's mildewed vines left in the bed are next year's early infection.

Shelling peas: pick when the pod is full and the peas are just slightly larger than the dry seed, while still thin-skinned. Snow peas: pick at full pod length with only small traces of peas showing. Snap peas: pick when pods look almost filled but are still juicy. Taste one every day or two rather than trusting the calendar. Sugar starts converting to starch the moment a pod hits maturity, and quality falls off within one to three days. There is no recovering it - a pea picked two days late is a mealy pea, and leaving mature pods on the vine also signals the plant to stop setting new ones.

As soon as picking ends, pull the trellis and chop the vines deeply into the soil rather than letting them sit. Then keep peas out of that bed for at least two years. Fix any spot that puddles or is compacted before you sow peas there again. Pea root rots are a complex of soil-borne fungi - Aphanomyces, Pythium, Fusarium, Rhizoctonia, Sclerotinia - that build in the soil with each pea crop and persist in debris. They are worst where soil is waterlogged or compacted, and once established there is no rescuing a crop, so rotation and drainage are the only real controls.